Everything we amend into the soil is organic and amendment based only! Each month our soil is made fresh in small batches to ensure proper mixing, consistency and live/fresh soil. Our soil is prepared from scratch we do not use Pre-made potting soils. We start for a peat moss and coco coir base and have our own specific recipe/mix style.
From sugars, Mycorrhizae, beneficial bacteria and so
MUCH MORE, There is no need for anything other than water and a quality base media when using our soil.
You will never again be stuck mixing chemicals, PH
balancing your mixes, battling burns, deficiencies and diseases that are created with stressed, over fed grows. Kind Soil costs less (depending on brands) to run per plant than most nutrient lines. The simplicity and quality of grow that is produced is with the minimal effort while still having top shelf, large producing grows, is something you will never get anywhere else.
Kind soil will give you the ability to run longer veg times than any "water only" system on the market. This will aid in increasing your plant growth and production!
Grows started and completed in Kind Soil
Q & A
Q: What else besides Kind Soil is needed to grow the plant?
A: you will need a grow pot, a filtered water source that is in the correct PH range, PH meter and a base media which you can run a few ways: bush doctor coco loco, roots organic original, Ocean forest or any organic potting soil you are familiar with. The media must be pre-charged with organic amendments. We also recommend having a PH meter, knowing your waters PH level is very important. If your tap water/well water/carbon filtered water comes out with a natural PH of around 6.3-7.0 you will not need to PH adjust your water. Should your water have a higher PH level than 7.2-7.3 we do recommend PH adjusting the water. You do not need to get to 6.5 or any specific PH, just getting your water into the neutral to slightly acidic range, is all you will need to do. DO NOT USE PHOSPHORIC ACID TO PH ADJUST YOUR WATER! Always use earth juice citric acid crystals (PH down) or earth juice Potassium bicarbonate (PH up).
Q: Can i use a different base media mix than roots, loco, ocean forest?
A: yes you can use any base media mix your familiar with. We do not recommend plain coco coir make sure your using something with some organic matter and amendments. We also do not recommend is using soils that have synthetic additives or anything like "hardware store soils". They generally contain bugs, synthetics, bio-solids or many other things your not wanting. Stick with a clean quality base media mix from your local garden/hydro store.
Q: Can you run your system with straight coco?
A: No if your interested in running coco with our system the best option is bush doctor coco loco, we really recommend that product over everything.
Q: Will i get less dense buds running organic soil?
A: ABSOLUTELY NOT your buds will be as dense or denser in our system. Theres a huge difference between expanding buds for weight and getting proper production. Your quality lessens as you "over inflate" your buds with chemical grows. Our soil will absolutely push your buds to their maximum potential, giving you solid, large coals. As long as your water and watering schedule is being done properly and environment is stable through the day and night you not experience production issues. Most important, plant genetics are always going to play the largest role in growth/production.
Q: What issues should i be looking for if i'm having any problems?
A: We can assure you that as long as the following is done you will never have any growth issues or deficiencies. Our system does everything your chemical lines do on its own.
1) Proper grow environment: Proper lighting, keeping fresh incoming air and exhausting old air, keeping the room cool when lights are on, but also keeping the room heated and stable above 65+ degrees at night when the lights are off. This is so rarely followed, cold night temps with soil is the worst thing for your plants when growing organically. The soil has to re-heat throughout the day just to get up to temp if your not keeping stable night temperatures. Your roots will always grow slower in cold soil, the cold soil also takes longer to completely dry before any re-watering should occur.
2) Keeping your humidity in check: That's a personal choice but never have your room above 50% most grow rooms (especially soil) require dehumidification and not humidification. Remember just watering your plants is going to increase your rooms general humidity for at-least 24-48 hours and thats if your de-humidifying. Unless your in a very dry zone or can clearly see your having low humidity issues never take the excessive step to supplement your humidity. Adding humidity when its not needed will create a lot of issues from Powdery Mildew to keeping your soil too moist.
3) Keep your grow pots off the ground: Keeping them on cement slabs or even floors does a lot of harm, cold air sits low on all floors regardless of general air temps. If your on cement floors in a basement the grow pots are also being affected by the ground they are touching. Cold temps will wick through the cement and effect the grow. In some cases, moisture can wick through cement to your pots. To combat this simply keep something under your plants as a barrier. Some people use flood trays on milk crates or just simply place milk crates under your grow pot. You can even use something like a 1" thick foam piece you can buy at home depot. But its very important to keep your root zone/planters off cold floors. We do recommend a infrared heater, they not only heat rooms evenly they heat objects. So along with heating your room, the heater will heat the outside of your grow pots to the same temps the general air is being kept at. They are fairly cheap now and very effective in grow environments.
4) Overwatering: This is the number one issue anyone ever has. You can't force your plant to drink and its only going to uptake so much over so many days. Anything else eventually evaporates over time because its not being utilized by the plant. Until your plant is well established you must keep your watering in check. Remember you can't make the plants grow faster just cause your jamming water down their throat. Depending on your media and plant size, watering should occur about every 3-4 days in stable environments, with young plants and every 2-3 days with well established plants. Daily watering does nothing for your indoor soil grows, you will kill your plant.
Q: At about 2-3 weeks before harvest some of my leaves are yellowing,do i need to add nitrogen? whats happening to the plants?
A: No do not add or do anything! Nothing is wrong this is natural and completely normal. Its actually telling you your flower is nearing its end life cycle. You don't see a lot of growers showing pictures of this, they think that somethings actually wrong and there isn't. When your plants aren't being overfed with liquid nutrients, they are going to go through natural life stages. Plants slow/stop uptake of nitrogen in the last few weeks, and begin to focus more on increasing the flower production. In the last 2-3 weeks of flower the plants flowers main purpose is to go into protect mode, produce trichromes and dense flowers which in return normally would aid in protecting the flowers seeds in order for the plant to restart its life next season. Females that still won't produce seeds will still go through this cycle. Medical plants can't flower forever and if you've ever taken a flower to the point where it dies you can see the cycle occur. Do not let your fan leaves yellowing or dying off scare you, as long as your plants main leaves aren't showing any issues theres nothing to worry about. Even in general plants shed fans in veg and the start of flower to open up light areas for lower/inner branch sites, they also will drop fans from time to time in order to focus energy else where.
Q:How tall do you recommend plants being?
A: Short, Keep in mind if your plants are 6 feet tall your plants have to take food from their rooting system transfer it to their branches then extend that food to your branch tips, that all takes a lot of energy from your plant especially when they are large. Keeping a plant shorter aids in allowing the plant to transfer food over a shorter distance/faster time. Your plant also wastes a lot of energy supporting itself when its tall and lanky. The more energy you can focus on your actual flower production the larger your flowers will end up becoming in the long run.
Q: Do we need to buy an R/O system?
A: No, and we do not at all recommend using RO water at all with our soil, there is no need for 0PPM water. Also if you require PH adjusting its difficult to do with 0ppm water
Q: Can you use plastic pots? if not, what do you recommend?
A: Although you can use plastic pots with the system we really recommend using something that allows the soil to breath a bit more. Plastic pots have a tendency to keep the soils moister for longer times than using fabric pots.I understand the dislike for most fabric pots as they have gotten bad reps.
We highly recommend using a product called Root Trapper II, its a smart pot style with a outer lining that allows air to still break to the roots, but it stops the water from leeching out of the sides all while helping with lowering humidity levels (in comparison to solid fabric pots). Root trappers II are also designed with a band at the base that's just fabric which allows the lower soil, that generally stays much moister than the tops, to dry at the same rate or close to the top. They also aid in insulating the soil in cooler temps. The second best choice is any fabric pots. Even though they can be a pain to use sometimes they allow the soil to properly dry all around and help eliminate overwatering.
Q: Can we amend extra perlite to the Kind soil?
A: our system is setup with a high porosity already there is no need to add excess perlite.
Q:Can we veg with synthetic regimens then transfer to Kind Soil for flower?
A: Yes that can simply be done. Once your ready for transplant, place Kind Soil at the base of your new grow container, on top of Kind Soil Place about 1-2" or more of your base media. This will give a barrier so that your fresh rooting system does not come into contact with the Kind Soil directly. Allow about 1.5 weeks for your plant to re-establish before transferring into flower. Prior to transplanting into Kind Soil we do recommend a flush of your roots to remove any salts or excess chemicals that may have built up through veg growth.
Q: Do you water to run off?
A: No your not running a chemical regimen. You want to lightly moisten the soil as the plant requires watering. Remember all the excess water your adding thats not being used, is creating humidity as it evaporates and leaves the soil.
Q: Can the system be used for auto flowers?
A: Absolutely yes. An auto-flower will only require 3 lbs. of Kind Soil.
Q: Can you use your soil with seeds?
A: Yes, Visit our seed starting link for step by step details.
Q: Can root boosters like orka, jellyfish, mycorrhizae be added to our water to boost the rooting system?
A: Although its not needed simple additives like that can be used. The only things we don't recommend adding is feeds like; extra NPK, cal-mag, bloom boosters etc.. Boosting the myco system or beneficial bacterias will not cause harm but again isn't needed.
Q: Can we use chemical regimens or extra bloom boosters when running Kind Soil?
A: No we do not recommend it, everything your plant will require, is fully amended in the soil. adding or using anything other than water can and will generally cause many growth/production issues. Your plants will produce large dense full size colas with nothing more than Kind Soil and water.
Q: Can organic teas be used to boost veg or flower?
A: As we stated above there is no need for anything other than water.
Q: Why is your soil so much more on amazon?
A: unfortunately at this time amazon adds a 15% fee onto the product costs and shipping costs for any item sold on amazon.
Our soil is cheaper in overall cost and shipping through us directly @ shop.kindsoil.com