Everything we amend into the soil is organic and amendment based only! Each month our soil is made fresh, in multiple small batches to ensure proper mixing, consistency and live/fresh soil. There is no ocean forest, roots organic or any pre-mixed potting soils used in our system.
From bloom boosters to sugars, Mycorrhizae, beneficial bacteria and so
MUCH MORE, There is no need for anything other than water and a quality base media when using our soil.
You will never again be stuck mixing chemicals, PH
balancing your mixes, battling burns, deficiencies and diseases that are created with stressed, over fed grows. Kind Soil costs less (depending on brands) to run per plant than most nutrient lines. The simplicity and quality of grow that is produced is with the minimal effort while still having top shelf, large producing grows, is something you will never get anywhere else.
Kind soil will give you longer veg times with heavier, denser flowers than any "water only" system on the market.
Stop trying and start growing!
Grows started and completed in Kind Soil
Q & A
Q: What else besides Kind Soil is needed to grow the plant?
A: you will need a grow pot, water, earth juice crystals natural down (if your water PH is overly alkaline), PH meter and a base media which you can run a few ways: coco loco, roots organic original, b'cuzz or any base media mix your used to growing with. Using our system with a PH adjusted grow medium like coco-loco, b'fuzz, roots organic original etc. allows you to simply water your plant as long as your water is not way out of range (too sweet or too acidic) the soils will do the work. You must still pay attention to PH issues that can occur. Over time organic matters ability to buffer weakens and the possible need for adjusted water maybe needed. Soils have a harder time buffering alkaline water (7.2+) more than they do a slightly acidic water. If your experiencing uptake issues and your using a higher PH tap water with no PH adjusting chances are the media isn't buffering the water properly. This is simply fixed by adding earth juice crystals to lower your water PH so that your in the 6.5-7.0 range. We recommend using earth juice crystals instead of harsher phosphoric liquid acids that can effect your rooting system. Phosphoric acids when used with water only systems create bad burn issues and immensely slow growth along with low production. At certain percentages phosphoric acids can slow or even kill your soils micro life which converts a lot of your amendments into food for your plant. You can also lower your PH levels with simple organic additives, however we only recommend using PH adjusters designed for organic growing (earth juice crystals). Again this should only be needed if your experience uptake issues due to your water having high PH levels.
As stated above, we do recommend also having a PH meter. Knowing your waters PH level is very important regardless of what you read on boards. If your tap water/well water/carbon filtered water comes out with a PH of around 6.2-7.0 you will not need to PH adjust your water. Should your water have a higher PH level than 7.2 we do recommend PH adjusting the water. You do not need to be exactly on 6.5 or any specific PH, just getting your water into the neutral to slightly acidic range, is all you will need to do. DO NOT USE PHOSPHORIC ACIDS OR POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE TO PH ADJUST YOUR WATER FOR OUR SOIL! Always use earth juice citric acid crystals (PH down) or earth juice Potassium bicarbonate (PH up).
Q: Can i use a different base media mix than roots, loco, ocean forest?
A: yes you can use any base media mix your familiar with. We do not recommend plain coco coir make sure your using something with some organic matter and amendments. We also do not recommend is using soils that have synthetic additives or anything like "hardware store soils". They generally contain bugs, synthetics, bio-solids or many other things your not wanting. Stick with a clean quality base media mix from your local grow/hydro store.
Q: Can you run your system with straight coco?
A: No if your interested in running coco with our system the best option is coco loco we really recommend that over everything. Pure coco coir creates a lot of issues over time when its not being used with chemicals.
Q: Will i get less dense buds running organic soil?
A: ABSOLUTELY NOT we can almost promise your buds will be denser in our system than any previous grows you've had even when using "bud hardners". Theres a huge difference between expanding buds for weight and getting proper production. Your quality lessens as you "over inflate" your buds with chemical grows. Our soil will absolutely push your buds to their maximum potential, giving you solid, large coals. As long as your genetics and environment is stable through the day and night you will never have production issues.
Q: What issues should i be looking for if i'm having any problems?
A: We can promise that as long as the following is done you will never have any grow issues, deficiencies or wasted
grows ever. Our system does everything your chemical lines do on its own.
1) Proper grow environment: Proper lighting, keeping fresh incoming air and exhausting old air, keeping the room under 85+(we recommend lower) when lights are on, but also keeping the room heated and stable above 65+ degrees at night when the lights are off. This is so rarely followed, cold night temps with soil is the worst thing for your plants when growing organically. The soil has to re-heat throughout the day just to get up to temp if your not keeping stable night temperatures. Your roots will always grow slower in cold soil, the cold soil takes longer to completely dry before any re-watering should occur. Cold, wet soils over time can have ph swings, your roots will uptake food slower and even lock out in cold soil temps.
2) Keeping your humidity in check: We run 35%-40% in veg and 40%-45% in flower thats a personal choice but never have your rooms above 50% most grow rooms (especially soil) require dehumidification and not humidification. Remember just watering your plants is going to increase your rooms general humidity up to 10+% for atleast 24-48 hours. Unless your in a very dry zone or can clearly see your having low humidity issues never take the excessive step to supplement your humidity. Adding humidity when its not needed will create a lot of issues from Powdery Mildew to keeping your soil too moist.
3) Keep your grow pots off the ground: Keeping them on cement slabs or even floors does a lot of harm, cold air sits low on all floors regardless of general air temps. If your on cement floors in a basement the grow pots are also being affected by the ground they are touching. Cold temps will wick through the cement and effect the grow. In some cases, moisture can wick through cement to your pots. To combat this simply keep something under your plants as a barrier. Some people use flood trays on milk crates or just simply place milk crates under your grow pot. You can even use something like a 1" thick foam piece you can buy at home depot. But its very important to keep your root zone/planters off cold floors. We do recommend a infrared heater, they not only heat rooms evenly they heat objects. So along with heating your room, the heater will heat the outside of your grow pots to the same temps the general air is being kept at. They are fairly cheap now and very effective in grow environments.
4) Overwatering: This is the number one issue anyone ever has. You can't force your plant to drink and its only going to uptake so much over so many days. Anything else eventually evaporates over time because its not being utilized by the plant. Until your plant is well established you must keep your watering in check. Remember you can't make the plants grow faster just cause your jamming water down their throat. Depending on your media and plant size, watering should occur about every 3-4 days in stable environments, with young plants and every 2-3 days with well established plants. Daily watering does nothing for your indoor soil grows, you will kill your plant.
Q: At about 2-3 weeks before harvest some of my leaves are yellowing,do i need to add nitrogen? whats happening to the plants?
A: No do not add or do anything! Nothing is wrong this is natural and completely normal. Its actually telling you your flower is nearing its end life cycle. You don't see a lot of growers showing pictures of this, they think that somethings actually wrong and there isn't. When your plants aren't being overfed with liquid nutrients, they are going to go through natural life stages. Plants slow/stop uptake of nitrogen in the last few weeks, and begin to focus more on increasing the flower production. In the last 2-3 weeks of flower the plants flowers main purpose is to go into protect mode, produce trichromes and dense flowers which in return normally would aid in protecting the flowers seeds in order for the plant to restart its life next season. Females that still won't produce seeds will still go through this cycle. Medical plants can't flower forever and if you've ever taken a flower to the point where it dies you can see the cycle occur. Do not let your fan leaves yellowing or dying off scare you, as long as your plants main leaves aren't showing any issues theres nothing to worry about. Even in general plants shed fans in veg and the start of flower to open up light areas for lower/inner branch sites, they also will drop fans from time to time in order to focus energy else where.
Q:How tall do you recommend plants being?
A: Short, Keep in mind if your plants are 6 feet tall your plants have to take food from their rooting system transfer it to their branches then extend that food to your branch tips, that all takes a lot of energy from your plant especially when they are large. Keeping a plant shorter aids in allowing the plant to transfer food over a shorter distance/faster time. Your plant also wastes a lot of energy supporting itself when its tall and lanky. The more energy you can focus on your actual flower production the larger your flowers will end up becoming in the long run.
Q: Do we need to buy an R/O system?
A: No, and we do not at all recommend using RO water at all with our soil, tthere is no need for 0PPM water. It also is very wasteful, it takes 5+ gallons of water to produce 1 gallon of R/O water the rest is wasted. We recommend carbon filtered water at most to remove excess chlorine/chloramine. If do not have a carbon filter option; leave the water sit for 24hrs. with a fish tank air pump and air stone. If you have good drinkable well water that is also extremely good and recommended to use with our system.
Q: Can you use plastic pots? if not, what do you recommend?
A: Although you can use plastic pots with the system we really recommend using something that allows the soil to breath a bit more. Plastic pots have a tendency to keep the soils moister for longer times than using fabric pots.I understand the dislike for most fabric pots as they have gotten bad reps.
We highly recommend using a product called Root Trapper II, its a smart pot style with a outer lining that allows air to still break to the roots, but it stops the water from leeching out of the sides all while helping with lowering humidity levels (in comparison to solid fabric pots). Root trappers II are also designed with a band at the base that's just fabric which allows the lower soil, that generally stays much moister than the tops, to dry at the same rate or close to the top. They also aid in insulating the soil in cooler temps. The second best choice is any fabric pots. Even though they can be a pain to use sometimes they allow the soil to properly dry all around and help eliminate overwatering.
Q: Can we amend extra perlite to the Kind soil?
A: our system is setup with a high porosity already there is no need to add excess perlite.
Q: Can you layer kind soil instead of using everything at the base?
A: It can be done but should be done with caution. Do not layer any higher than 1/2 your grow pot depth. If you layer too thick or layer too high you can damage your plants roots or create a slower growth issues when the layers are too thick. We do however recommend to set up the system as we state in the instructions.
Q: How much should we water our plants?
A: All that will generally depend on genetics and environment as well as your base media choice. Some genetics will grow faster than others resulting in the need for more water. When your plants are first planted its vital your not over watering the soil. Your plants roots haven't established and will not utilize all the water if you completely soak the media. Just like a kids formula amount increases with size so should your watering ratio for your plant size. Overwatering causes more issues than good. I Make sure your allowing your media to properly dry out between waterings. You want to find a happy medium where the media is moist but not soaking wet, while giving it time between waters to dry out.
Q:Can we veg with synthetic regimens then transfer to Kind Soil for flower?
A: Yes that can simply be done. Once your ready for transplant, place Kind Soil at the base of your new grow container, on top of Kind Soil Place about 1-2" or more of your base media. This will give a barrier so that your fresh rooting system does not come into contact with the Kind Soil directly. Allow about 1-1.5 weeks for your plant to re-establish before transferring into flower. Prior to transplanting into Kind Soil we do recommend a flush of your roots to remove any salts or excess chemicals that may have built up through veg growth.
Q: Do you water to run off?
A: No your not running a chemical regimen. you want to lightly moisten the soil every few days. Clearly you want to water well established plants to the point where the media is wet from top to bottom but excess run off is not needed. Remember all the excess water your adding thats not being used, is creating humidity as it evaporates and leaves the soil.
Q: Can the system be used for auto flowers?
A: Absolutely yes, you will still follow the 1lb. per gallon of grow space rule. The only exception is if ou choose to run a 3 gallon pot, you can use 3lbs per 3 gallon. An auto-flower will not need more than 3 lbs. of kind soil in its life cycle.
Q: Can you use your soil with seeds?
A: Yes, Visit our seed starting link for step by step details.
Q: Can root boosters like orka, jellyfish, mycorrhizae be added to our water to boost the rooting system?
A: Although its not needed simple additives like that can be used. The only things we don't recommend adding is feeds like; extra NPK, cal-mag, bloom boosters etc.. Boosting the myco system or beneficial bacterias will not cause harm but again isn't needed.
Q: Can we use chemical regimens or extra bloom boosters when running Kind Soil?
A: No we do not recommend it, everything your plant will require, is fully amended in the soil. adding or using anything other than water can and will generally cause many growth/production issues. Your plants will produce large dense full size colas with nothing more than water.
Q: Can organic teas be used to boost veg or flower?
A: As we stated above there is no need for anything other than water. If you choose to feed, the only thing that can ever be used with our system that won't cause burn would be organic lightly mixed teas, but again there is absolutely zero need for it and using it can cause a lot of issues.
Q: Why is your soil so much more on amazon?
A: unfortunately at this time, we are charged very high seller fees on amazon, they also charge extra to you for shipping. The price raise you see on amazon does not even reflect the full price we pay to sell each item on their site, we actually pay portions of the fees as well because they are so high. Our soil is cheaper in overall cost and shipping through us directly @ shop.kindsoil.com
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